Modifying a pattern to fit

Crocheted corgi stuffy close up image of the face of the dog

Small Corgi stuffed animal

Sometimes you want to make something and can’t find just the right pattern. This could be a great time to modify one that you already own or find a free one to modify.

Things to look for when attempting this:

  • Overall shape of the pattern

    • Does it match the shape you want to create? This is the most important question. If it isn’t matching the shape you want to create find a different pattern. I often refer to “base patterns”. These are great basic patterns that create a shape you can change to fit a new project. For example: All of my custom dolls use the same base pattern. I just change details to fit a new character.

    • Is it the correct scale/size for what you are wanting to make? You don’t want to have to modify too much of the pattern.

    • Have you made the pattern before? It is really helpful if you have already made the pattern without modifying it so you understand how it is put together.


On to the Corgi! I started off using the Laying Kitten Pattern from Amigurumi Today. It is free if you sign up or you can purchase the pattern for a small fee. I signed up. They don’t spam you with emails. It is a great resource for some basic patterns for free. There are ads on the website and app.

Link to Laying Kitten pattern

Materials:

Yarn- gold acrylic worsted (4) yarn

Bernat Velvet in white and black (the black is only used for the nose and mouth)

3.5mm hook

Instructions:

Head: You are working from the back of the head to the snout.

1: Magic Ring 6 single crochet into the ring, pull closed.

2: Inc x 6 (12)

3: SC 1, inc *6 (18)

4: SC 2, inc *6 (24)

5: SC 3, inc *6 (30)

6: SC 4, inc *6 (36)

7-12: SC around (36) 6 rows

13: SC 4, invisible decrease *6 (30)

introduce white for face blaze here (play around with it. this took me multiple tries to get it to look right)

14: SC 3, INV dec *5, change to white for 2 SC, back to gold for 1, inv dec (24)

15: SC 2, INV dec *5, change to white for 2 sc, back to gold for inv dec (18)

16: SC 1, INV dec *5, change to white for SC and a inv Dec (12)

Insert safety eyes in between rows 14 and 15 on either side of the white blaze. Stuff head firmly.

Continue in white only

17-18: SC 12 around (12 for 2 rows) stuff snoot and finish stuffing head

19: dec *6 (6) finish off and use long tail to sew into each front loop of a stitch, then pull tight.


Ears: Make 2 using gold

1: Magic ring with 5 SC .

2: Inc*5 (10)

3: SC 4, inc *2 (12)

4: SC 5, inc *2 (14)

5: SC 6, inc *2 (16)

6-7: Sc around (16 for 2 rows)

8: Partial row- Chain 1, sc though both sides of the ear for 4 SC. turn

9 partial row: Sc bad out to edge. FO leave tail long for sewing.

This partial row gives the ear a way to stand up more like a corgi ear than a cat ear.


Front Legs: make 2 and join them together to make the front of the body. I used all white for the front legs

1: Magic ring with 6 SC

2: Inc around (12)

3-7: SC around (12 for 5 rows) Make one and finish off weaving in tail.

This is a modification from the kitten. The have corgi gets shorter legs.

Make a second one then…

8: Chain 2, SC into first leg and all the way around, 2 SC into the chains you made then around the second leg.

9-11: SC around (32 for 3 rows) Finish off and weave in end.


Hind legs: Work in white for a few rows then switch to gold. Make 2 finishing off the first one then joining together to form the body.

1: magic ring with 5 sc

2: inc around (10)

3: SC 4, inc *2 (12)

Change to gold

4: SC 5, inc*2 (14)

5: SC 6, inc*2 (16)

6: SC 7, inc*2 (18)

7-8: Sc around (18 for 2 rows) finish off the first leg. Make another leg then continue below.

9: Chain 1, join to first leg and SC around (18) then one SC in the chain, SC around second leg (18). TIP: If your stitch count is a little different from mine don’t worry. Sometimes this part can get a bit wonky. For the next part you just want to make sure your decreases are on the outside of the legs and you end up with 32 SC total to match the front legs. This is also a modification from the kitten. The legs are shorter.

10: SC 7, dec, SC 18, dec, SC 9

11: SC around (36)

12: SC 7, dec, SC 16, dec, SC 7, BOBBLE stitch in last for that tail! (34)

13: SC around (34)

14: Sc 7, dec at hip, SC 17, dec, SC 7 (32)

15-24: SC around (32 for 10 rounds)

Leave a long tail for sewing- stuff firmly.

view of the corgi doll's belly. You can see the seam between the front and back body parts.

Belly view: You can see where you sew the two pieces together.

Assembly: Sew Ears to head with the partial rows on the outside of the head. This will help them stand up better. Sew the two parts of the body together and add stuffing as you need to make it firm. Sew head to body near the seam you just made. Be sure to have the tail facing up! Embroider a nose and mouth onto the muzzle.

Back view of the cogir stuffed animal. You can see the tail bobble.

Back view of the Corgi: You can see the tail bobble

Top view of corgi stuffed animal

Top view of corgi: You can see placement of the ears and head from above.

Now you have a tiny corgi!



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Taking a leap